The stormy winter weather has finally broken (fingers crossed just by typing that sentence; I haven't jinxed it) and it's beginning to feel like spring. And along with warm, breezy days, fresh, local produce, and the NBA playoffs, one of the best things spring brings us is the seasonal re-opening of Old Prague in downtown Vermilion.

A local institution, Old Prague has been run by the same family for nearly 40 years.

The menu isn't stagnant, however, reflecting the new generation's tastes as well as the classic Czech recipes. Homey dishes like cabbage rolls ($12.95), roast pork ($16.95), and chicken paprikash ($13.95) are made from scratch, and the knowledgable wait staff gives good advice on everything from imported Czech beers (if you like it dark and smooth, try Samson) to whether to order spaetzle, dumplings or the phenomenal homemade stuffing to accompany your meal.

The décor is pure Eastern European kitsch, heavy on the framed photos of unfamiliar Czech dignitaries and a display of mismatched china teacups that emphasize the feeling of being invited to your grandmother's for dinner.

Every entrée includes a side like spaetzle or mashed potatoes, and soup or salad to start. The Prague Vegetable salad is a traditional favorite: cucumbers, bell peppers, cherry tomatoes and carrot marinated in tart-sweet vinaigrette.

You could also order an extra appetizer to share around the table; a large group might enjoy the Sampler Platter for $10.95, which includes fried provolone, sauerkraut balls, home-fried potatoes, and shiski. Shiski are like meatballs, only fried, and they're served with a delicious apple mustard dipping sauce.

Don't gorge yourself on the first course, though, because the main dinner plates are the whole point of Old Prague.

The Wiener Schnitzel ($16.95), veal chops pounded flat and lightly breaded and fried to golden perfection, is the favorite of many Old Prague regulars. Be sure to ask for extra lemon to sqeeze over the top, for that bright, acidic contrast. The most expensive entrée, at $21.95, is the Roast Duck, but it's worth every penny. Crisp skin and dark, flavorful meat pair deliciously with the homemade sauerkraut, which is some of the best I've ever tasted.

If you still have room for dessert after all that, you're doing better than I usually manage. The apple strudel is homemade, but unless it's just come out of the oven, don't bother. Reheated in the microwave, the pastry goes soggy, while the apples approach volcanic temperatures. There are several fun coffee cocktails on the desert menu, if you just want something sweet; those are a better bet.

Whether you're nostalgic for the family recipes of your childhood, or you just want a savory meal served in comfortable, friendly surroundings, Old Prague is well worth the drive. Don't wait! They'll be closing their doors again in October-if you want to have time to try every yummy thing on the menu, you'll have to get started right away.